This month, How to Eat is wading into the quagmire that is porridge. Must the oats be pinhead? Is a wooden bowl essential? And are bacon, eggs and cacao nibs really acceptable toppings? 

Porridge is a subject about which seemingly every detail is mired in controversy. Take, for instance, its origin myth. Robert Burns may have hymned “the halesome parritch, chief o’ Scotia’s food” and George Orwell, sarcastically, called it Scotland’s gift to the world. But porridge is no more Scottish than Rod Stewart. Nor is it necessarily directly descended from medieval English pottage, as the Oxford Companion To Food claims. Southern Europeans were drying and grinding oats 32,000 years ago. In 1001 variations globally, porridge has always been with us.

Then there is the issue of the grains, with numerous factions pushing the case for pinhead, coarse, jumbo or rolled oats, with a vociferousness that the average Trotskyist would find, “a bit much”. And that is before, in this age of porridge temples such as London’s 26 Grains, we get into retro-futurist, post-oat ingredients such as amaranth, spelt and black quinoa.

The only thing that people seem to agree on is that porridge is almost uniquely healthy for you. It is good for the heart, blood pressure, waistline (the soluble fibre in it, beta-glucan, makes you feel fuller for longer), and your general pep, as its complex carbs release energy slowly into the bloodstream. Wilder claims that porridge can do everything from prevent a hangover to boost your libido, should be taken with – as Scottish porridge pedants would approve – a pinch of salt.

Cooking

How to Eat (HTE) is relatively open-minded in such matters. Much instant porridge is beige baby food of negligible gastronomic value, but, frankly, even the greatest porridge (patiently toasted pinhead and all), is no revelatory taste sensation. The real flavour elevation is in the toppings.

Decent rolled oats, such as Flavahan’s, do a sufficiently earthy, nourishing job in presenting a little residual bite amid all that creamy starch gelatinisation, and if HTE rejects microwaving as a method of preparation it is primarily for psychological reasons. There is a restorative meditative quality to be found in slowly stirring a pan. It will take you longer to clean the pan than it did to eat the porridge, but it is good for the soul.

On occasion, there is a certain ascetic pride to be taken from eating basic, salt ’n’ water porridge. It feels hardcore. But that only lasts for a day or two before you start cutting what was historically known as water pudding 50:50 with semi-skimmed milk (any more milk, particularly full-fat, makes it too rich), and topping it with cinnamon roasted pineapple or, erm, Sriracha hot sauce.

Sweet or savoury?

With all due respect to Heston Blumenthal’s snails, Chinese congee and René Redzepi’s mornings of porridge with fried pork and butter, this is not a savoury dish. Or, rather, it is a savoury dish which, to bring it to its fullest expression, you sweeten.

At its best, porridge is defined by cohesive, complementary contrasts; flavours and textures that click together as satisfyingly as the proverbial Volkswagen car door. Think of the contrast between that savoury, nutty base and its sweeter toppings; the hot grains and cold milk: that wan canvas and the bright fruits on top; the gloopy, cereal texture of the porridge and its softer or harder garnishes: from jams and compotes or pert fruits that pop in the mouth to large nuts coddled in the warm, nubbly embrace of the porridge.

Equally, this is not dessert. Anything that requires you to lace it with cocoa powder, lemon zest, cardamom or nutmeg – particularly if it requires you to oven-bake it and serve it with Chantilly cream – is not porridge. That, my friend, is pudding.

Toppings and additions

Like pizza, porridge can be topped with pretty much anything and, like pizza, this does not mean that it should be. Many of those toppings are disastrous.

Good toppings: dark rivulets of demerara (although any sugar is sweet); maple syrup (adds a smooth, almost burned toffeeish depth that makes it, arguably, the perfect sweet foil for all that oaty roughage); cold milk (the ubiquitous moat!); chopped dates (finally, a use for them); very, very ripe mango; stewed, sweetened apples or pears; soft, lightly tart berry fruits, particularly blackberries and blueberries (either warmed and squished, or whole and cold for an entirely different sensation); nuts and seeds, particularly almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, pumpkin seeds; dried fruits (cranberries, apricots, papaya); toasted coconut; black treacle (a speciality in Yorkshire, apparently).

You may choose to go about all this by hand, painstakingly combining toppings. However, there is another way. Simply buy muesli that offers a suitable combination of the above and toss that across. No one will judge you. No one can see you. You are in your own kitchen.

Bad toppings: honey (that foul, floral-medicinal contaminant that taints everything that it touches); cream, much less double cream (because you can have too much of a good thing); banana (weirdly ineffectual in this context, it does not offer a definitive counterpoint); grated or diced raw apple (often full of jarringly, well, apply flavours that leave a peculiar off-chemical aftertaste); mixed spices (this is not mulled wine and nothing should aspire to taste like that); pomegranate seeds (because it is like chewing a mouthful of your own broken teeth); scallops; bacon; harissa; miso; poached eggs; hot sauce (HTE is not making this up, this is all really happening, right now … probably in east London); single malt whisky (it seems, frankly, like a terrible waste).

 When

Winter mornings, when it is still dark outside and the rain is audibly lashing against the windows with such force it drowns out the radio. Days when you need not just the internal central heating, but the gently reassuring, spoon-by-spoon repetitive consistency that only a bowl of gluey porridge can provide. It eases you sleepily into the day, with nary a jolt. Only a damned fool or someone deliberately cultivating a rep as an eccentric “character” would eat porridge in summer. Or after 9am. This dish, so appealing in its core blandness in the fuzzy irritation of an early morning, reveals itself, at lunch, to be a great lump of unedifying griege stodge. Porridge at lunch is a laborious chore.

Bowl

It must be a high-sided bowl with no lip. That uninterrupted circle is a psychological and aesthetic manifestation of the hug that this porridge will give you. Moreover, served in a large shallow bowl, porridge looks like an unedifying splat. Like hastily slopped-out gruel. More prison canteen than perfect breakfast. HTE can see the appeal of using a wooden bowl. It is more than a hipster affectation. At 7am there would be something appealingly quiet and restful about the scraping of wood-on-wood. “The sound of a spoon on a wooden porridge bowl is gentle, comforting and homely,” reckons Nigel Slater. But, ultimately, life is as busy as it is short, money is tight and there are only so many things you can engage with. Bowls come very much down life’s pecking order. From a bowl, HTE wants something cheap and convenient that it can chuck in the dishwasher. Standard white, vitrified factory-made crockery will do just fine.
Spoon

Use a wide round soup spoon not an oval dessert spoon. The latter always feels a little stiff and prissy, if not odd in the mouth, when eating something that requires you to dig deep, like porridge.

So, porridge. How do you eat yours?

Warm up by topping a spiced lentil pie with comforting mash or cover a hearty vegetable and cheese pie with crisp celeriac rosti...

Cumin and mustard seed puy lentil pie. Photograph: Matt Russell for the Guardian

 Walks – bracing ones across beaches and dunes – filled this last week. Long stretches of sand lined with pine forests on one side and the tempting sea on the other. With the car in sight, we surrendered our toes to the glassy water and splashed our way along the seashore, kicking droplets into the winter sunshine with each step. Back at the car, our rolled-up trousers damp and our toes like ice, we thawed out with tea and a snap of dark chocolate. On the drive home I was fixated on pie, topped with deep comforting mash, which I fantasised about eating with a spoon.

In less than an hour, we were spooning cumin and mustard seed-spiced pie from our laps, a comforting cloud-like crust of mashed cauliflower on top of a rich lentil ragu, cooked until the lentils are almost soft. Its warmth soon spread all the way to our feet.

Sometimes, though, I crave more crunch and texture from a pie, like the rosti-topped one overleaf, with its buttery grated celeriac roof. The flavours warm you in a different way, with the round sweetness of nutmeg, custardy butter beans, toasted walnuts, the minerals of kale and a sharp punch of cider vinegar.
Cumin and mustard seed puy lentil pie (main picture)

I use cauliflower for my mashed topping here as it works brilliantly with the Indian spices. You could just as easily use potato.

Serves 4
Olive oil
2 tbsp mustard seeds
A handful (about 20) curry leaves, fresh if you can get them
2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp cumin seeds, bashed
1 tbsp of coriander seeds
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 x 400g tin of puy lentils, drained, or 250g home-cooked lentils
1 x 400g tin of tomatoes
1 tsp vegetable stock powder, or ½ a stock cube
2 dates (I use medjool)
1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped
1 lemon
Flaky salt
2 medium cauliflowers (about 1kg, once leaves removed)
1 tbsp coconut or olive oil

1 Get all your ingredients together. Fill and boil your kettle. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6 .

2 In a large, heavy pan, add a good glug of oil. Get it nice and hot, add the mustard seeds and curry leaves, then cook for a couple of minutes until the mustard seeds pop. Take the pan off the heat, reserve half the seeds and leaves, then put the pan with the remaining mixture back on the heat.

3 Add the carrots and onions to the pan and cook for another 10-15 minutes, or until soft, sweet and nicely browned. Add the cumin, coriander, garlic and ginger, then cook for 3-4 minutes to toast the spices and allow the garlic and ginger to release their oils. Take care that the garlic doesn’t burn.

4 Add the drained lentils, tomatoes, stock and half a tin of hot water from the kettle. Roughly chop the dates and add to the pan with the chopped chilli and the zest of half the lemon. Season with salt and simmer on a medium heat for 25 minutes, or until thick, rich and flavourful.

5 Meanwhile, make the cauliflower mash. Break the cauliflower into florets and slice the stalk (you can use this, too) and add the whole lot to a lidded pan with about 2cm of water in the bottom. Put on a high heat and steam until the cauliflower is tender – about 10 minutes. Drain well, then put back on the heat for a minute to dry the cauliflower out. Allow it to cool a little, then blitz in a food processor with the coconut oil and a big pinch of salt. When you have a silky smooth mash, fold in the reserved mustard seeds and curry leaves.

6 When the lentils are ready, squeeze in the juice of the lemon and mix well. Spoon them into an ovenproof dish (about 20x25cm). Top with the cauliflower mash and bake for 20 minutes, or until the tips of the mash are golden and the lentils are bubbling.

‘If you prefer, you could use parsnips instead of celeriac here – they will roast in exactly the same time.’ Photograph: Matt Russell for the Guardian

 Kale, walnut and cheddar rosti pie

If you are after a really hearty meal, you could even serve this with some mashed potato.

Serves 4
For the filling
A small swede (about 500g), peeled and cut into 1cm chunks
Olive oil
Salt and black pepper
100g walnuts
1 red onion, peeled and finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
2 heaped tbsp flour (I used buckwheat flour)
300ml vegetable stock
200g kale
1 tbsp cider vinegar
1 x 400g tin butterbeans
1 heaped tbsp wholegrain mustard
100g cheddar, crumbled into small pieces

For the rosti topping
1 large celeriac, peeled
½ whole nutmeg
A small bunch of thyme, leaves picked
2 tbsp butter or ghee

1 Preheat oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Spread the swede on a baking tray, drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and black pepper and roast for about 30 minutes, or until golden-edged and tender.

2 Spread the walnuts on a tray and toast in the oven alongside the swede for 6 minutes, or until golden. Roughly chop and set aside.

3 Heat a little olive oil in a large pan and add the red onion, cooking for about 10 minutes, or until soft, then add the garlic and cook until it just begins to colour at the edges. Quickly add the flour and stir for a minute to cook out its rawness, then add the stock little by little, stirring after each ladleful so the sauce doesn’t become lumpy.

4 Strip the kale leaves from the stalks, slice the stalks really finely and tear any big leaves in half. Add the kale to the pan with the vinegar, put the lid on and allow the kale to wilt for a couple of minutes. Drain the butter beans and add them to the pan, using a spoon to mash them a little. Take the pan off the heat and add the mustard, cheese, walnuts and roasted swede. Stir to combine, taste and season with salt and pepper, then pour into an ovenproof dish (about 20 x 25cm).

5 To make the topping, grate the celeriac using the coarse side of a box grater (you could also use a food processor to do this). Tip the celeriac into a sieve, sprinkle with salt and allow to sit for a few minutes to draw some moisture out. You can squeeze the celeriac with your hands to speed the process up a bit. Transfer the celeriac into a bowl, grate the nutmeg over. Add the thyme leaves. Give everything a quick mix with your hands, then scatter over the pie filling. Dot with the butter or ghee and bake for 20 minutes, or until the filling is bubbling and the topping golden.

Anna Jones is a chef, writer and author of A Modern Way to Eat and A Modern Way to Cook (Fourth Estate); annajones.co.uk; @we_are_food

Ingredients like lemon juice, honey, and ginger make this drink a great choice during cold and flu season. 

Photo: Merriweather

We're big fans of coffee here at Health (did you know it's packed with antioxidants and might even help you burn more calories during a workout?). But at this point in the winter, when everyone around you is coughing and sickly, you might want to start your day with something a little more powerful.

I came across this drink on the Instagram page of one of my favorite coffee shops, Merriweather Coffee + Kitchen in New York City, and have been making a similar version at home ever since. It's called a Winter Warmer, and it's made with good-for-you ingredients like lemon juice, apple cider vinegar, and fresh ginger, delivering a slew of impressive benefits in one cup. Apple cider vinegar has been linked to improved blood sugar and digestive health, fresh ginger may help relieve cramps and calm an upset stomach, and honey can soothe a stubborn cough.

Lemon juice, of course, is a great source of vitamin C. While it's a myth that vitamin C prevents colds, studies do show that it may help shorten them. (And for what it's worth, I've stayed sniffle-free since regularly drinking this concoction—even as many of my friends and co-workers have developed winter colds.) Also good: Antioxidant-rich cinnamon adds subtle sweetness, and cayenne pepper contains the metabolism-boosting compound capsaicin.

RELATED: The 50 Best Weight Loss Foods of All Time

We reached out to Merriweather to get the official recipe they serve in their coffee shop. To make, simply add all of the ingredients together in about 12 ounces of warm-hot water and mix.

Winter Warmer Drink

Yield: 1 drink

2 Tbsp. raw unfiltered organic apple cider vinegar

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

3-5 pieces of diced fresh ginger

1 dash of cayenne pepper

1 cinnamon stick

1 tsp. raw honey

This article originally appeared on FoodandWine.com. 

Photo: benjerry.com

Despite the milk industry's efforts to delegitimize the "milk" part of almond milk, Ben & Jerry's has already embraced the apparently controversial beverage to create a line of vegan ice cream options. And now, a year after its grocery store debut, we've got three new non-dairy ice cream flavors to scream about.

Classic flavors Cherry Garcia and Coconut Seven Layer Bar, as well as newcomer Caramel Almond Brittle, have been added to the company's frozen dessert offerings. The delicious trio joins other non-dairy options like Chunky Monkey, Chocolate Fudge Brownie, PB & Cookies and Coffee Caramel Fudge, which confirms that vegan is still totally on trend for 2017.

News of these particular flavors doesn't come as too much of a surprise. Both Cherry Garcia and Coconut Seven Layer Bar were spotted in Philadelphia last week, to which a Ben & Jerry's spokesperson commented: "We cannot confirm nor deny the new non-dairy flavors coming to shelves in 2017 – that we’ll be announcing in the middle of February – no matter how delicious they are."

Now that we've gotten our highly-anticipated, albeit underwhelming announcement, one can only imagine what Ben & Jerry's will roll out next. Vegan cones? Vegan whipped cream? Vegan ice cream sandwiches? We certainly wouldn't be disappointed with vegan versions of these guys.

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From a refreshing citrus salad to a juicy Greek-style turkey burger, these meals are brimming with health perks. 

You probably know all about the health benefits of eating like a Greek islander. Research has proven the Mediterranean diet can do wonders for your heart, brain, mood, and waistline. But maybe you're a little tired of the same-old kebabs and tomato-cucumber-feta salad. Enter Live to Eat: Cooking the Mediterranean Way (amazon.com; $30), the latest cookbook from chef and restaurateur Michael Psilakis. It's filled with dozens of fresh recipes, made with healthy fats and nutrient-rich produce, that will make you want to move to Greece (seriously). To give you a taste of how Psilakis combines simple ingredients to create mouthwatering dishes, we pulled three of our favorite recipes from his book. Scroll down to learn how to make a citrus salad with yogurt, tzatziki sauce with warm pita and crudités, and a juicy Greek-style turkey burger.

Citrus Salad With Greek Yogurt

Serves: 4

1 ruby red grapefruit, segmented with its juices

1 Cara Cara or other navel orange, segmented with its juices

1 key lime, segmented with its juices

16 oz. Greek yogurt

Sea salt

Fresh ground black pepper

1 Tbsp. honey

8 mint leaves roughly chopped

•  Combine the grapefruit, orange, and lime segments and their juices in a bowl.

•  Spoon the yogurt into each of four dessert bowls

•  Divide the citrus mixture and juice among them and season with salt and pepper.

•  Drizzle the honey over and garnish with the mint.

Cucumber Yogurt Dip With Crudités and Warm Pita

Serves: 4 to 6

Cucumber dip (tzatziki)

Makes: 5 ½ cups

3 cloves garlic, peeled

½ cup white vinegar or white wine vinegar

4 cups Greek yogurt

1 large English cucumber, ends trimmed, peeled, and halved lengthwise, seeds discarded and flesh cut into ¼-inch dice

3 Tbsp. loosely packed chopped fresh dill

2 tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. fresh ground black pepper

• Combine garlic and vinegar in a blender and puree until smooth.

• Combine the yogurt and garlicky vinegar in a bowl. Using a whisk, gently work the liquid into the      yogurt until it is fully incorporated.

• Fold in the cucumbers, dill, salt, and pepper. Transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid. (The dip will keep for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.)

NOTE: Be sure to remove all of the seeds from the cucumber; they release water, which will make the dip too loose.

Crudités and warm pita

2 rounds whole wheat pita

1½ cups Cucumber Yogurt Dip (see above)

1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Pinch fresh ground black pepper

2 pounds mixed fresh vegetables such as carrots, celery, broccoli, grape tomatoes, and peppers, cut into matchsticks or bite-sized pieces

• Warm the pitas in a microwave or toaster for a crunchier texture. Alternatively, to add a smoky flavor, place directly over a gas flame until very lightly  charred in  places. Flip over and repeat on the other side. Stack the pitas on top of each other and cut into eighths.

• Put the dip into a serving bowl, drizzle the olive oil on top, and season with the pepper. Serve with the vegetables and pita.

RELATED: 22 Mediterranean Diet Recipes

Greek Turkey Burgers

Makes: 4

Extra virgin olive oil, for rubbing

¼ cup milk

2 slices whole wheat bread, crusts removed

1 lb ground turkey

1 tsp. (heaping) Garlic Puree

Kosher salt

Fresh ground black pepper

¼ cup Cucumber Yogurt Dip

4 whole wheat English muffins, split and toasted

½ lemon

8 (¼-inch-thick) slices beefsteak tomato

8 thin-sliced red onion rings

½ cup packed arugula

3 Tbsp. loosely packed chopped mixed herbs (dill, parsley, mint)

• Line  a small tray with parchment paper and rub it all over with olive oil.

• Combine the milk with ¼ cup water in a large shallow bowl. Add the bread, using your hands to soak it. Squeeze out any excess liquid.

• Combine the bread, turkey, and garlic puree in a medium  bowl. Mix with your hands until just  combined. Handle it as little as possible. Divide the mixture into 4 equal portions. Shape each portion into a ½-inch-thick patty, place on the tray, and rub olive oil over each.

• Preheat a gas grill or grill pan over medium heat. Season both sides of each patty with salt and pepper, then grill until soft to the touch for burgers that are just cooked through.

• Spread the dip on 4 of the English muffin halves. Top with a patty followed by a squeeze of lemon  juice, 2 slices of tomato, red onion, arugula, herbs, a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and the muffin top.

Excerpted from the book LIVE TO EAT by Michael Psilakis. Copyright 2017 by Michael Psilakis. Reprinted with permission of Little, Brown and Company.

Cook with stone fruits

There’s a decided sense of summery romance that stone fruit conjures for me; the sweet, distinctive perfume and velvety skin of an apricot, sweet-sour cherry juice running down your throat, the almost-impossible juiciness of a ripe nectarine.

All these are in season right now in Australia, where the sunny weather is seeing nectarine, peach, apricot and cherry trees bowed down with fruits – the perfect time for the launch of the Now! In Season campaign, by the Australian government, Victoria State government, and Horticulture Innovation Australia.

The campaign, launched last month, will run throughout the year. It’s all about eating well by eating in season – when produce is available as well as at its best – and so will feature different produce as the seasons change.

Right now, it’s the stone fruits in the spotlight, right up until March; table grapes will show up in stores from March to May, then citrus fruits from August to October.

“Fruits like these are part of our everyday in Australia,” said Brett Stevens, Commissioner to South-East Asia for the government of Victoria.

Growing up in Victoria, Stevens recalls picking and eating fresh fruit in season as one of his best memories.

“Everyone has fruit trees there. We had a cherry tree, and I remember having to compete with the cockatoos who wanted to eat the fruit too!”

“At Christmas, every Aussie home will have a bowlful of cherries at any celebration. They’ve become such a part of the festivities simply because they are in season.

Brandon Chin putting the finishing touches on the lamb rissoles with charred peaches, with a little help from Brett Stevens.

 “Today though, many consumers are conditioned to expect everything all year round, and we just want to demonstrate to people the difference it can make to enjoy a fruit when it is picked at the right time – when it is ripe,” he said.

“Nutritionally, this is also when they are at their best. Plus, they are cheaper when in season, as they don’t incur the cold storage facility charges as much.”

With 871 tonnes of Australian fruits imported by Malaysia in 2015, there’s no questioning their popularity here. And the campaign looks to educate consumers not just about what’s in season, but how to pick and eat it (including handy tips such as: look out for small white spots for the sweetest nectarines, buy cherries with the stems attached, and eat apricots only when any green spots have disappeared).

For the campaign launch, chef-owner of Breakfast Thieves, at Art Printing Works (APW) in Bangsar, came up with some lovely dishes starring some of the featured fruits. Brandon Chin, who also co-owns the original Breakfast Thieves in Fitzroy, Melbourne, has worked and lived in Australia for 15 years.

One of his first jobs was working at laneway dining pioneer Punch Lane, where his very first job was to hull cherries for the desserts – about 10kg worth, every two days!

“We’ve always worked closely with seasonal produce in Melbourne; it’s really just about celebrating what nature has to offer,” he said. 
He spent years learning the valuable lessons of working with seasonal produce in the markets, the kitchen and from working closely with producers.

Here, he shares three of his recipes showcasing stone fruits.

“As a chef, it’s all about balance, so I use the acidity and sweetness of peaches against the fattiness of lamb, for instance,” he said. “When you cook with fruits, you can enhance the flavour of a dish without adding a lot of sugar.”

Smoked Salmon Mousse On Brioche With Poached Nectarines, Herbed Mascarpone & Pickled Cucumber.

Smoked Salmon Mousse On Brioche With Poached Nectarines, Herbed Mascarpone & Pickled Cucumber

(4 servings)

smoked salmon mousse
150g smoked salmon
40ml lemon juice
50g Greek yoghurt
50g cream cheese
salt and freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

Earl Grey poached nectarines
1 litre water
3 Earl Grey tea bags
3 sprigs thyme
1 orange, zested
1/2 cup honey
5 nectarines

pickled cucumber
1 Japanese cucumber
2 tbsp salt

brioche crostini
4 slices brioche
100g unsalted butter, melted
salt, for sprinkling

herbed mascarpone
230g mascarpone
70g unsalted butter, softened
1/4 tsp finely-crushed garlic
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp freshly-ground black pepper
1 tsp finely-chopped chives
1 tsp finely-chopped dill
1/2 tsp finely-chopped parsley

garnish
ebiko
cherry tomatoes

To make mousse

Place smoked salmon and half the lemon juice in a food processor for 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the yoghurt and cream cheese and blend for 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper and remaining lemon juice. Transfer to a bowl and chill until required.

To poach nectarines

Bring water to boil in a large pot. Lower heat and add the tea bags, thyme and orange zest. Cover and allow to infuse for 20 minutes.

Remove tea bags and bring the liquid to a boil again. Stir in the honey and add the nectarines. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove nectarines from the pot and allow to cool slightly.

Discard all solids from poaching liquid, and simmer until reduced by half.

When nectarines are cool enough to handle, gently slip the skin off and discard. Set the fruit aside.

To prepare cucumber

With a mandolin, slice the cucumber into thin ribbons. Place the cucumber ribbons in a colander and sprinkle them with salt to extract excess moisture. Set aside for 20 minutes. When cucumber is soft, roll it and place it in container to chill until required.

To prepare brioche

Preheat oven to 160°C. Cut the brioche into bite-sized pieces. Brush the brioche on both sides with melted butter and sprinkle with salt. Bake till golden brown, then set aside to cool.

To prepare herbed mascarpone

In a small mixing bowl, blend mascarpone and butter. Mix in crushed garlic, salt and pepper. Blend in the herbs and continue to mix until all ingredients are combined. Store in a covered container till required.

To assemble

Spread some herbed mascarpone on a brioche crostini. With a warmed teaspoon, form a quenelle of smoked salmon mousse and place on top of mascarpone. Form the cucumber ribbons into rolls and place some on the crostini, then cut the nectarines into pieces and add a few of those. Garnish with ebiko and cherry tomatoes.

Note: The herbed mascarpone can be used as a sandwich spread instead of butter

Lamb Rissoles and Couscous Sliders with Charred Peaches, Caramelised Onions & Cucumber-Mint Raita.

Lamb Rissoles and Couscous Sliders with Charred Peaches, Caramelised Onions & Cucumber-Mint Raita

(Makes 5)

lamb rissoles
1 cup couscous, rehydrated
500g minced lamb
4 tbsp chopped mint leaves
1 red onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup almond flakes, roughly chopped
2 eggs
salt and pepper, to taste

raita
1 cup plain yoghurt
1 cucumber, seeds removed
1 tbsp shredded mint leaves
a pinch of salt

charred peaches
3 peaches
olive oil, for cooking
1/2 cup syrup
2 limes, juiced
1/2 bunch mint, leaves only
5 brioche burger buns
lettuce leaves

To make lamb rissoles

In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and mix until well-combined. Divide the mixture into 100g portions and mould each into a patty with wet hands. Lightly oil the patties, then cook in a non-stick pan for 4 minutes on each side. Remove the pan from the heat. Allow the lamb patties to rest in the pan while preparing the other elements for this dish.

To make raita

Dice the cucumber and season with salt, then place it in a colander. Set aside to drain for 20 minutes. Place the yoghurt, cucumber, mint and salt in a bowl. Stir to combine. Chill for 30 minutes.

To make charred peaches

Just before serving, cut the stone fruit into wedges. Lightly char the peaches in a pan with a light drizzle of olive oil, then mix in the syrup, lime juice and mint. Remove from heat and set aside for a few minutes to allow the syrup to infuse with the peaches.

To assemble

Using the same pan that you cooked the lamb in, warm the patties, adding 1 teaspoon of butter and basting the patties with the pan jus. Lightly toast brioche burger buns, then spread with a generous spoonful of raita, and add a lettuce leaf, a lamb rissole and some charred peaches for each.

Coconut Chia Pudding with Vanilla Poached Apricots, Cherry Compote & Home-made Granola.

Coconut Chia Pudding with Vanilla Poached Apricots, Cherry Compote & Granola
(4 to 5 servings)

coconut chia pudding
1 1/2 cups coconut milk
70g chia seeds

poached apricots
1 vanilla pod, halved lengthwise
1 1/2 cups water
1 cup caster sugar
3 strips fresh lemon zest
1 pinch salt
600g firm, ripe apricots, halved and pitted
salt and pepper, to taste

granola
35g shredded coconut
125ml vegetable oil
40g unsalted butter
1/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup honey
1 tsp ground cinnamon
500g rolled oats
1/2 cup sunflower seeds
1/2 cup pumpkin seeds

cherry compote
330g cherries, pitted
120ml freshly-squeezed orange juice
100g caster sugar
gula Melaka, for shaving
micro mint leaves, for garnish
orange zest, for garnish

To make pudding

Mix both ingredients in a small mixing bowl, then pour the mixture into an airtight container. Chill overnight.

To poach apricots

Scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod into the pot and add the pod itself, water, sugar, zest and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, uncovered, over high heat. Allow to boil for 1 minute.

Carefully add in apricot halves, then reduce heat and simmer, turning over once. Poach for 2 to 6 minutes – until fruit is tender but still holds its shape, and skin remains intact.

Transfer the apricot halves to a large, shallow bowl and allow to cool for about 1 hour, till they reach room temperature.

To make granola

Preheat oven to 160°C.

Place the coconut, oil, butter, syrup, honey and cinnamon in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, until combined.

Mix the oats, seeds and nuts on a baking tray, then pour the syrup over, stirring to make sure every-thing is well-coated. Roast for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes.

Remove from oven, and allow to cool. The granola can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

To make compote

Place all ingredients in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat. Simmer until cherries are softened and start to release their juices, about 15 minutes.

Continue to simmer until the liquid is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from heat.

To assemble

In a highball glass, place a portion of coconut chia pudding, then shave some gula Melaka over. Place a large spoonful of cherry compote in the centre of the glass, then layer 2 spoonfuls of granola on top. Cut the apricots into bite-sized pieces and place on top of granola. Finish with micro mint leaves and orange zest.

Would you eat these ‘live’ scorpions?

You can’t walk through the Wangfujing Snack Street in Beijing, China, without gawping at some of the more bizarre things sold there.

Even if you’re used to seeing (or eating!) deep-fried bugs in countries like Thailand – you can usually find them at Bangkok’s Khao San Road – or the Philippines, you would still be a little surprised to see the things that are sold at Wangfujing.

Wangfujing is a shopping area in Beijing that is popular with tourists, both local and international. It is only about 2km away from Tiananmen Square and is pretty close to some top hotels like the Marriott, Regent, The Peninsula and Waldorf Astoria.

Along the main Wangfujing street is an alley that takes you to an enclosure which houses numerous snack shops, a food court, bars and a handful of souvenir stalls. This is what is popularly known to tourists as the Wangfujing Snack Street.

As you enter the area, you are greeted by a strong aroma that may or may not put you off; no, it is not durian but stinky tofu! The smell was OK during my visit in December (winter), but friends who were there in summer complained that it was unbearably pungent.

Still, stinky tofu is nothing new as you can even find it in many weekly pasar malam (night market) in Malaysia. Rather, what was more intriguing were the “live” scorpions being sold at a couple of stalls. These scorpions were served on skewers much like satay but the arachnids were wriggling away as they were still alive!

It turns out that if you chose to eat the scorpions, the vendors would actually put them in a fryer first to cook them, and then add some spices to the crunchy things. Since I have eaten scorpions in Bangkok before and could still remember what they tasted like, I didn’t think I needed to try them in China.

Also sold at the same stall were tiny turtles, seahorses, baby rattlesnakes, starfish, centipedes (yikes!) and the more “common” bugs like the silkworm and grasshoppers.

But enough about edible bugs and insects. The Wangfujing Snack Street also offers other more familiar – as well as delicious and cheap – food items like dumplings, Peking duck pancakes, bao, meatballs, sausages, sweet cakes and rice cakes.

However, if you can’t speak Mandarin or read Chinese, it might prove to be a little difficult for you to figure out what’s what. It is probably not advisable for Muslim visitors (or even folks who are vegetarian/vegan) to try anything savoury from this place, but there are a lot of sweet treats like candy, caramelised fruits, yoghurt drinks and ice cream available.

Here are some pictures of the delicious-looking food you can find at Wangfujing Snack Street.

  Um, would anyone like to try these?

      Street-style Peking duck pancakes.

  Boiled tripe is very popular at Wangfujing.

      Yum!

  There are many types of dumplings sold at Wangfujing.

  A steaming bowl of Chinese-style meatballs is what you want in winter.

  A wide variety of rice cakes is available at the Wangfujing Snack Street.

      Durian!

                                                Pig’s blood served in a pita pocket. Or you could just have it in a bowl.

      Baby lobsters?

 Seafood!

Not sure what this is but the stall has several photos of celebrities posing with the charcoal briquette-looking thing.

Around the world in pancakes

With Mardi Gras, Pancake Day and Candlemass just around the corner, pancakes will be on the menu this February in various parts of the world. From France’s crêpe Suzette to Britain’s crumpets, countries across the globe have their own local variants, with both savoury and sweet specialties to sample. Here’s a look at some of the world’s different types of pancakes

Crêpe Suzette – France

Crêpe Suzette is the ultimate French pancake. Invented by Auguste Escoffier at the end of the 19th century, the crêpe Suzette shouldn’t be confused just any old flambéd pancake. This French classic must be served with a sauce flavoured with orange zest and a dash of Grand Marnier liquor to truly earn its name. The dish is apparently named after the young woman (Suzanne) who was dining with the future king of England, Edward VII, when he sampled the dish.

Hirams plattär – Sweden

Take the ingredients and technique of choux pastry and the look of the classic French crêpe and you basically have this Swedish specialty. This pancake, however, has a slightly puffier consistency and is usually served with yellow cloudberry jam. This can usually be found at a certain famous Swedish furniture store.

Crumpet – UK

A staple of the breakfast table or a great afternoon snack, crumpets are a quintessentially British speciality. The crumpet – whose name can also be slang for a pretty girl – is made with fresh yeast which makes the mixture rise. This gives crumpets their soft and spongy texture, as well as their characteristic holes. Crumpets can be enjoyed with marmalade or simply spread with butter.

Dorayaki – Japan

This is essentially a Japanese version of American pancakes. Unlike the US variety, Tokyoites – who lay claim to the specialty – use a kidney bean purée to fill two pancakes which are then stuck together while warm. This paste is called “anko” and can easily be made at home or bought from Asian food stores.

Msemen – Morocco

Visitors to the North African kingdom will no doubt be familiar with this specialty, which looks like homemade French crêpes at first glance. It is, however, quite different. First of all, msemen are folded on each side to form a square shape. But, more importantly, the dough is made from fine-grain semolina. This is kneaded for a long time to form a very thin film. Msemen are enjoyed with honey and a glass of steaming hot Moroccan mint tea.

Paratha – India

There are many kinds of breads in Indian cuisine that can resemble pancakes. There are naans, of course, but paratha breads are perhaps more pancake-like still. Partha breads are a bit like puff pastry versions of chapatis, made from wholemeal wheat flour, corn flour or millet flour. They aren’t cooked in the same kind of oven traditionally used to make naan breads and there’s no fermentation stage with yeast when preparing the dough.

Farinata – Italy

This Genoan recipe is a veritable institution in Italy. Farinata is a savoury pancake made from chickpea flour, water, salt and oil, which is cooked in a wood-fired oven. Each region has its own variants and preferences for Farinata, which can be eaten with pesto or gorgonzola, spread on the pancake straight from the oven.

Dosa – India

Among the various forms of Indian flatbreads and pancakes, dosas are a must-try. These Southern Indian pancakes are made from black eyed peas and fermented rice. They can be garnished with vegetables, ground meat, chutneys and more.

And also …

  Mexican tortilla. Photo: AFP/Istock

              Russian blinis with salmon and creme fraiche. Photo: AFP/Istock

The world has a huge range of other pancakes and flatbreads for foodies to try. There’s the Russian blini, the Algerian mahjouba, the Moroccan baghrir (thousand-hole crêpes), the Mexican tortilla, American pancakes, Danish ebleskivers, the Ethiopian injera and northern China’s jian biang. – AFP Relaxnews